Eastern Macedonia and Thrace in Winter by 4×4: Masks, Pelicans and Vultures

For three days after Christmas Eve and again around Epiphany, a line of villages in the Drama and Kavala hills puts on goat skins, bells and blackened faces and goes from house to house. The Babougera of Kali Vrysi, the Arapides of Nikisiani and Monastiraki, the Babinden of Petrousa and the twelve-day customs of Volakas all fall on 6, 7 and 8 January, on dates that do not move. In the same weeks the Dalmatian pelicans are on Lake Kerkini and the vultures are over Dadia.

This guide covers 1 October 2026 to 30 April 2027 across Serres and Lake Kerkini, Drama, Kavala and Philippi, Xanthi and the Nestos, Komotini and the Rodopi coast, and Evros as far as Soufli and Didymoteicho: what happens when, what is open, what needs a permit, and a phone number for every one of them.

When to go: the off-season month by month

October and November — the quiet approach. The Mikropoli chestnut festival falls on a Sunday in October, the Nestos gorge and the Rodopi forests turn, and the archaeological sites are empty. Ohi Day is Wednesday 28 October 2026, and it is one of the free-admission days at state museums.

December — the town programmes. Drama lights Oneiroupoli, its Christmas park, from 4 December 2026 to 3 January 2027; the dates are already published. Kavala runs its own Christmas programme from early December. Drama also keeps its patronal feast for Agia Varvara on 3 and 4 December, and Alexandroupoli keeps Agios Nikolaos on 6 December.

January — the month the region is built around. Epiphany falls on Wednesday 6 January 2027, and the masked customs of the Drama and Pangaio villages run on 6, 7 and 8 January on fixed dates. Kerkini and the Evros forests are at their coldest and their birdlife at its fullest count of the year.

February — the quietest weeks. The pelicans on Kerkini are in breeding plumage and the pouch under the bill turns orange-red; numbers and behaviour vary from year to year, so it is a phone call rather than a certainty. Snow on Falakro and the Rodopi tops.

March — carnival, late this year. Clean Monday 2027 falls on 15 March, so everything compresses: Tsiknopempti on 4 March, then the carnival weekend of 13 and 14 March in Xanthi, Serres and Didymoteicho, and the Tzaros burning in Xanthi on Clean Monday itself. Western Easter lands on 28 March, two weeks after Clean Monday, and is an ordinary working week in Greece.

April — the forest roads dry out, the Dadia trails are at their easiest, and Greek Holy Week runs from Palm Sunday on 25 April through Good Friday on 30 April. Orthodox Easter Sunday itself is 2 May 2027, two days past the end of this window.

Getting there from Athens

This is the far corner of the country, and the drive is the part most people underestimate. Athens to Alexandroupoli is 870 km and about 8 h 30 on the A1 and then the A2 Egnatia, with roughly €51.60 in tolls across eighteen stations. Kavala is about 670 km and 7 h 30, roughly €44 in tolls; Serres about 600 km and 6 h 40. Treat the drive east as a day of the trip rather than a morning of it.

Flying in shortens it considerably. Kavala (Chrysoupoli) has one year-round domestic route in winter, Aegean to Athens; everything else there is summer leisure traffic. Alexandroupoli is served through the winter by both Aegean and Sky Express to Athens, which gives you two carriers and more choice of times. Neither airport has international flights in these months.

From Thessaloniki the region opens up quickly: Serres about 1 h 05, Drama about 1 h 45, Kavala about 1 h 45, Xanthi about 2 h 30, Komotini about 3 h, Alexandroupoli about 3 h 40, all on the Egnatia. The internal hops are short — Kavala to Xanthi 45 minutes, Xanthi to Komotini 40, Komotini to Alexandroupoli 45, Alexandroupoli to Dadia an hour, Serres to Kerkini about an hour, Drama to Falakro about 55 minutes.

Snow and chains. Under the 2022 ministerial decision (Gazette 1144/B/2022), chains or an approved alternative — snow socks, or winter tyres carrying the alpine symbol — are required from 1 October to 30 April on any road where the authorities have issued an order. There is no blanket duty to carry them outside such an order, and the Ministry has said so explicitly. In practice the roads that attract orders here are the climbs: Falakro, the Kato Nevrokopi plateau, the Rodopi villages above Xanthi and the Livaditis road. For a rental, the supplier is not obliged to provide chains, so ask for them as an extra when you book. Egnatia roadside assistance is 1077 from any mobile, with 24/7 patrols and free removal of broken-down vehicles; the customer service line is +30 23141 72750. If you are flying in, our guide to 4×4 rental at Athens Airport covers pickup and delivery.

Towns and villages

Kavala

Kavala is the western base and the largest town on this coast: a working port on a bay, with the Panagia quarter climbing a headland to a Byzantine castle and the Kamares aqueduct striding across the middle of the modern city. The castle is one of the few things in the region open every day through the winter — 1 November to 31 March, 08:00–16:00, on +30 25108 38602. Below it, the Imaret is an early nineteenth-century Ottoman foundation that now operates as a hotel; the exterior is free to walk past, and access inside is arranged through the hotel on +30 25106 20151 rather than as a museum visit.

Philippi is fifteen minutes inland, on the UNESCO list since 2016: the forum, the basilicas and a Hellenistic theatre on the slope of the acropolis. One planning point that catches people out — the site and the museum do not keep the same days. See the museums section below before you drive out.

Xanthi

Xanthi's old town is a hillside of painted nineteenth-century tobacco-merchant houses, and the modern town below it holds one of the three carnivals in this guide that clear our evidence bar. There is no state archaeological museum in the town; the Folklore and Historical Museum, run by the local cultural association, keeps Tuesday to Sunday 09:00–14:30 on +30 25410 25421.

North of the town the road climbs into the Rodopi, through the Pomak villages of Sminthi, Myki and Echinos and on towards Thermes and the Livaditis waterfall — about sixty metres of drop from a village at 1,300 m, with seven kilometres of forest road that stop some three hundred metres short of the fall itself. The Municipality of Myki answers on +30 25413 52300. This is the part of the region where a chain order is most likely between December and March.

Komotini, Maroneia and Abdera

Komotini is the administrative centre of Rodopi and a university town, which means it stays awake all winter. Its old bazaar, its mosques and its Archaeological Museum sit within a few streets of each other. South-east of it, Maroneia has an ancient theatre and a scattered archaeological site above the Thracian Sea, with parking at the Agios Charalampos harbour; the restored Tavaniotis Mansion in the village keeps museum hours on +30 25330 43016. West along the same coast, the museum and site of Abdera — the city of Democritus — sit six kilometres apart, so check which of the two you are navigating to.

Alexandroupoli, Soufli and Didymoteicho

Alexandroupoli is the eastern base: a nineteenth-century grid on the sea with a lighthouse at the end of the front, a university, two airlines flying to Athens and the region's only museum that opens on a Saturday evening. North of it the Evros valley runs up the Turkish border through Soufli, where the Silk Museum of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation keeps its own winter window — 16 October to 28 February, 10:00–17:00, closed Tuesdays, and also closed on 18 January for the local feast — on +30 25540 23700. Half an hour further, Didymoteicho has a Byzantine castle on the hill above the town and the fourteenth-century Bayezid Mosque, the oldest Ottoman mosque in Europe, which has been under restoration for years. Main structural works were reported as delivered at the end of August 2026 with the minaret, interior and surroundings targeted for the end of that year, but no date has been announced for visitors to go inside. That was the position in August 2026; the Municipality of Didymoteicho answers on +30 25533 50602.

Drama and Serres

Drama is the base for the January customs: the masked villages are all within forty minutes of it, and the town keeps the region's one museum that opens on Tuesdays and stays open until 18:00. Its Agia Varvara park, a set of springs and channels in the middle of town, is an unticketed public park for most of the year and becomes the fenced Oneiroupoli site in December. Serres, an hour from Thessaloniki, has a free archaeological museum in the restored Bezesteni and is the way in to Lake Kerkini.

The Evros delta — read this before you plan around it

The Evros delta is one of the largest wetlands in Europe and it sits on the Greek–Turkish border, which changes what a visitor may do there. The state agency that manages it, NECCA, publishes that foreign nationals wishing to tour or birdwatch inside the Evros Delta National Park must hold an entry permit for the supervised zone, issued by the Hellenic Police and the armed forces, and describes the process as time-consuming. The only route it publishes is an email request to the management unit. No lead time, form or fee is published anywhere, which means this is not something to arrange on the day.

What that leaves, practically: the information centres, which anyone can visit. The one at Loutra Traianoupolis answers on +30 25510 61000 and the one at Feres on +30 25550 24310, both 08:00–16:00, and the Greek-language notice adds that service is by prior telephone contact — so call first. There are three public observation hides, at Drana, Antheia and Paloukia, and marked trails at Avantas. NECCA advertises no boat trip and no guided 4×4 tour of the delta, so treat any such offer as a private arrangement rather than a park service.

One more thing at the same spot: the thermal baths at Loutra Traianoupolis are out of operation. The operator's own site said so when this guide was written in August 2026; they have been shut since 2019 over the operating licence. The information centre next to them is open. If that has changed by the time you read this, +30 25510 61215 is the number to try.

Driving this yourself? The Rodopi village roads above Xanthi, the forest tracks around Dadia and the climb to Falakro are where a compact 4×4 with proper winter tyres earns its keep in these months. See what we run, or send us your dates on WhatsApp at +30 6988 766 204 and we are happy to suggest spots.

Wetlands, forests and mountains

Lake Kerkini

Kerkini is an artificial lake on the Strymonas, an hour from Serres and about an hour and a quarter from Thessaloniki, and it holds one of the larger concentrations of wintering waterbirds in Greece. Dalmatian pelicans are the birds people come for; from midwinter the pouch under the bill takes on an orange-red colour as the breeding season approaches. Cormorants, herons, egrets and large numbers of ducks use the lake through the same months, and the water buffalo herds graze the wet margins on the north side.

The lake is worked from small flat-bottomed boats. There is no published winter timetable for them, so this is arranged by phone: one of the operators on the lake answers on +30 69454 65619. For information about the aquarium and the visitor facilities, the number NECCA publishes is +30 23233 50200. The embankment roads carry farm traffic and are not all open to visitors; ask locally rather than assuming.

Dadia and the vulture observatory

The Dadia–Lefkimi–Soufli Forest National Park needs no permit, which makes it the wildlife stop in this region a self-driving visitor can simply turn up to. The information centre in Dadia village is open daily 08:00–16:00 on +30 25540 32209, closing only on 1 January, 25 December and Easter Sunday. From it a fifteen-seat minibus runs up to the vulture observatory four times a day, at 08:30, 10:00, 11:30 and 13:00, booked on the same number; the only suspension rule the park publishes is a summer fire-risk one. Black vultures, griffon vultures and Egyptian vultures are the species the park is known for, and the black vulture colony here is the reason the park exists.

If you would rather walk it, the orange trail runs from the centre to the observatory in about an hour on easy ground, with a forty-five minute yellow return, and the red trail climbs Gibrena at 520 m in about two and a half hours. The park states that trail access is possible all year round outside the 1 May to 31 October fire-prevention period, so the whole of this window is open.

Two cautions. Admission and shuttle charges are not published in a form we can quote — confirm on the phone when you book the minibus. And the management agency has, in at least one past winter, closed the Dadia and Loutra centres on Sundays and public holidays in January. That notice is not currently in force, but a phone call before a January Sunday costs nothing.

The Nestos: the gorge and the delta

The Nestos separates Kavala from Xanthi and cuts a long looping gorge between Stavroupoli and Toxotes before spreading into a delta on the coast. The viewpoints over the meanders are reached on forest road from the Stavroupoli side, about half an hour from Xanthi. The old railway line through the gorge is a well-known walk locally, but we can find no municipality, region or park that publishes it as a marked and maintained trail, so treat it as an informal route and judge it on the day.

Two operators based on the river run rafting and kayak trips: Riverland at Toxotes on +30 25410 62488 and Forestis at Paranesti on +30 69878 85626. Neither publishes a winter schedule, so water levels and dates are a phone call. The management body for the wider Nestos, Vistonida and Rodopi area answers at Porto Lagos on +30 25410 96646.

Porto Lagos and Lake Vistonida

Halfway between Xanthi and Komotini, a timber walkway runs out over the water to the small Agios Nikolaos metochi of Vatopedi, standing on its own islet in Lake Vistonida. It is a level walk of a few minutes, open to the weather, and the lagoons on either side of the road hold flamingos and waders through the winter. Forty minutes from Xanthi, and one of the few things here that works in any conditions.

Falakro and Pangaio

Falakro, about 55 minutes above Drama, carries the region's ski centre: a base at 1,720 m, pistes running to 2,232 m, twenty-one runs and around seventeen kilometres of piste, with a detachable four-seat chair among the lifts. It is run by the Region of Eastern Macedonia and Thrace, and its recent history matters for planning. The centre reopened for the 2024/25 season after five years closed; in 2025/26 it opened on 1 January and ran a reported pattern of Saturdays and Sundays 09:00–16:00 plus Fridays when there was snow. The Region re-tendered the lease in late 2024, so the arrangement for 2026/27 was not settled when this guide was written in August 2026, and the price list on the centre's own site is dated 2019. The centre publishes no phone number of its own; the Drama tourism office on +30 25214 01467 is the number to try, and snowreport.gr carries day-to-day status.

Pangaio, between Kavala and Serres, is the mountain the Arapides villages sit on. On its northern slope the monastery of Eikosifoinissa, one of the oldest in Europe, is reached on a road that climbs from the Serres side; it publishes no visiting hours, and the Metropolis of Drama answers on +30 25105 16581.

Cultural events, festivals and customs

Everything below was checked against at least two consecutive previous years and carries a number you can ring. The January customs fall on fixed dates, which makes this region straightforward to plan a year ahead. The March dates move with Orthodox Easter — and because Clean Monday 2027 is late, on 15 March, last year's carnival dates are no guide.

The cultural associations

The January customs are run by village associations working with their municipalities, and they know this year's programme first. The village of Kali Vrysi publishes a mobile number for its association, +30 69555 95797, and the Municipality of Drama on +30 25213 50600 covers Kali Vrysi, Monastiraki and Xiropotamos. Prosotsani on +30 25223 50103 covers Petrousa and Pyrgoi, Kato Nevrokopi on +30 25233 50102 covers Volakas and Pagoneri, and Pangaio on +30 25923 50018 covers Nikisiani. These are civil servants and volunteers rather than a tourist office, and the phone will be answered in Greek.

Easter and Holy Week 2027

• Western Easter Sunday: 28 March 2027 (Good Friday 26 March) — the one most visitors from Germany, the Netherlands, the UK, Belgium and Austria travel on. In Greece it is an ordinary week, and it falls exactly two weeks after Clean Monday.
• Orthodox Easter Sunday: 2 May 2027 — two days outside this window. Greek Holy Week is inside it: Palm Sunday 25 April, and Good Friday 30 April, the night of the Epitaphios processions in every town. These are parish events rather than municipal ones, so the times come from the local church.
• One consequence of the late date: Agios Georgios, 23 April, does not fall in its usual place in 2027. Because it precedes Orthodox Easter it transfers to Bright Monday, 3 May, which puts every St George village feast outside this window even though the date looks fixed.

Museums and indoor days

Read this first. Greek state museums run a winter timetable set by ministerial decision, and the decision for winter 2026/27 had not been issued when this guide was written in August 2026. The hours below are the standing winter schedule, tracking 2025/26; the new one is expected around late October. Confirm on the numbers given. Two further points: since 1 April 2025 separate summer and winter ticket prices have been abolished and replaced by five bands, so any "winter price" you find on an older page is out of date; and free-admission days in these months are the first and third Sunday of each month from 1 November to 31 March, plus 28 October 2026, 6 March 2027 and 18 April 2027.

• Philippi — the site: 08:00–15:30 in winter. The museum keeps different days: Friday, Saturday and Sunday only, 08:30–15:30, closed Monday to Thursday. €10. +30 25105 16251
• Archaeological Museum of Kavala — 08:30–15:30, closed Tuesdays. €10. +30 25102 22335
• Castle of Kavala — 1 Nov–31 Mar, 08:00–16:00, daily. +30 25108 38602
• Tobacco Museum, Kavala — Monday to Friday 08:00–16:00, closed at weekends. €2. +30 25102 23344
• Archaeological Museum of Komotini — 08:30–15:30, closed Tuesdays. €5. +30 25310 22411
• Ecclesiastical Museum, Komotini — mornings 10:30–13:00 on most days, but Wednesday and Friday 17:00–20:00. +30 25310 34177
• Folklore and Historical Museum, Xanthi — Tuesday to Sunday 09:00–14:30. €5. +30 25410 25421
• Abdera — museum and site — 08:30–15:30, closed Tuesdays. €5. The site is six kilometres beyond the village. +30 25410 51003
• Tavaniotis Mansion, Maroneia — Monday and Wednesday to Sunday 08:30–15:30. €5. +30 25330 43016
• Silk Museum, Soufli — 16 Oct–28 Feb, 10:00–17:00, closed Tuesdays and closed on 18 January. €6 / €3. +30 25540 23700
• Byzantine Museum, Didymoteicho — Thursday, Friday and Sunday 08:30–15:30, Saturday 13:00–20:00, closed Monday to Wednesday. €5. +30 25530 23960
• Archaeological Museum of Alexandroupoli — 08:30–15:30, Saturday 13:00–20:00, closed Tuesdays. €10. +30 25510 26103
• Ethnological Museum of Thrace, Alexandroupoli — Tuesday to Saturday 09:00–15:00, Sunday 10:00–14:00, closed Mondays. +30 25510 36663
• Archaeological Museum of Drama — 08:00–18:00, Tuesdays from 11:00. €5. The one museum here that opens on a Tuesday, and the one that stays open latest on a weekday. +30 25210 31365
• Archaeological Museum of Serres, in the Bezesteni — 08:30–15:30, closed Tuesdays. Free. +30 23210 22257
• Amphipolis — the museum 08:30–15:30, €10; the Lion stands by the road and is free at any hour. +30 23220 32474

On the Kasta tomb at Amphipolis: it is not open to visitors. The Ministry of Culture restated a target of early 2028 in 2026, and that target has moved more than once, so plan the trip around the museum and the Lion rather than around the tomb.

Where to base yourself

Kavala is the western base: a city with an airport, a port, a castle that opens every day through the winter, and Philippi fifteen minutes away. Komotini is the central one — a university town that runs a normal winter, roughly forty minutes from both Xanthi and Alexandroupoli. Alexandroupoli is the eastern base, with two airlines to Athens, the Ethnological Museum and Dadia an hour up the valley. Drama is the base for the January customs, since the masked villages are all within forty minutes of it, and Serres is the base for Kerkini.

Xanthi works as a base for the landscape rather than for the opening hours — the Rodopi roads, the Nestos and Porto Lagos are all within forty minutes, but the town has no state museum. Soufli and Didymoteicho are places to visit rather than to sleep in. As a general rule in these months, the regional capitals and the university towns run a normal winter with fuel and pharmacies at usual hours; the mountain villages do not, so fill up before you climb.

Book ahead for 6–8 January if you are following the masked customs in the Drama villages, for the carnival weekend of 13–15 March in Xanthi, and for Greek Holy Week at the end of April. Midweek in February you can usually decide on the day.

For everything else on the road — service points, water, waste, parking and what other travellers have actually found on the ground — park4night's map of Eastern Macedonia and Thrace is the tool most people driving Greece already have on their phone. Treat it as traveller intel rather than official information: entries go stale, winter changes everything, and it is always on you to check that a spot is one you are allowed to use.

A six-day winter route

Built west to east, so the long drive up does some work, and with dark by about 17:30 in midwinter factored in.

Day 1 — Athens to Serres, about 600 km and 6 h 40. A motorway day either way, whatever the weather. Arrive, eat, sleep.

Day 2 — Lake Kerkini, about an hour out and back. The pelicans, the buffalo and the north shore, with a boat arranged by phone beforehand. If it rains: the free archaeological museum in the Serres Bezesteni, closed Tuesdays.

Day 3 — Drama and the Falakro road, about 1 h 30 across. In the twelve days after Christmas this is the day you build around a village: Kali Vrysi, Monastiraki, Xiropotamos, Petrousa or Volakas, all within forty minutes. If it rains: the Drama archaeological museum, which is open until 18:00 and open on Tuesdays.

Day 4 — Kavala and Philippi, about 45 minutes. The Panagia quarter, the castle, the aqueduct, and Philippi in the afternoon — checking first whether the museum is one of its three open days. If it rains: the Tobacco Museum, weekdays only.

Day 5 — Xanthi, the Nestos and Porto Lagos, about 2 h of driving in total. The meander viewpoints above Stavroupoli in the morning, the Xanthi old town at midday, the walkway at Porto Lagos in the late light, and on to Komotini or Alexandroupoli. If snow closes the Rodopi roads: stay low and do Abdera and Maroneia instead.

Day 6 — Dadia, an hour from Alexandroupoli. The information centre and the observatory minibus in the morning, the Soufli Silk Museum in the afternoon, and either the long drive home or a flight out of Alexandroupoli.

For the regions west of here, our guides to Western Macedonia in winter, Epirus and Zagori, Sterea Ellada and the Peloponnese run on the same calendar, and overlanding mainland Greece links them.

What to know before you go

The drive east is the trip's first day. Eight and a half hours to Alexandroupoli, seven and a half to Kavala. Flying into Kavala or Alexandroupoli and picking the vehicle up there changes the shape of the whole trip.

The border matters here. Evros is a frontier province with Turkey and Bulgaria. Carry ID, do not photograph military installations or the border fence, and note that the Evros delta itself needs a permit for foreign visitors as described above. Taking a rental vehicle across into Turkey or Bulgaria needs the supplier's written permission and a green card — ask us before you plan it, not at the border.

Chains when there is an order. Between 1 October and 30 April chains or an approved alternative are required on any road where the police or civil protection have issued an order. Winter tyres with the alpine symbol satisfy it. Rental suppliers are not obliged to carry chains as standard, so add them when you book if your route includes Falakro, Kato Nevrokopi or the Rodopi villages.

Daylight. Dark by about 17:30 in midwinter. The January customs run through the morning and the middle of the day, which is unusual and helpful — the square dances start around 15:00 rather than at night.

What the 4×4 buys you. Not the Egnatia and not the towns. It is the forest roads above Stavroupoli, the Rodopi villages when there is snow on them, the tracks around Dadia and the climb to Falakro. Our fleet is set up for this.

We also run a small number of guided multi-day trips in Greece. If that suits you better than driving it yourself, you can join the waitlist and we will let you know when dates open.

Frequently asked questions

What are the Babougera and the Arapides?

They are masked midwinter customs of the villages around Drama and Mount Pangaio, performed on 6, 7 and 8 January on dates that do not move. Men dress in goat skins with heavy bells and blackened or carved faces and go from house to house, and the days close with a satirical mock wedding in the village square. Kali Vrysi, Monastiraki, Xiropotamos, Petrousa, Pyrgoi, Volakas, Pagoneri and Nikisiani all keep a version of it. The Municipality of Drama publishes the village programmes: +30 25213 50600.

Can a foreign visitor go into the Evros delta?

Not freely. The managing state agency publishes that foreign nationals wanting to tour or birdwatch inside the Evros Delta National Park need an entry permit for the supervised zone, issued by the Hellenic Police and the armed forces, and describes obtaining it as time-consuming. The information centres at Loutra Traianoupolis (+30 25510 61000) and Feres (+30 25550 24310) are open to everyone, 08:00–16:00, and call ahead. Dadia, an hour north, needs no permit and is the straightforward wildlife stop in the region.

When is the Xanthi carnival in 2027?

The dates had not been published when this guide was written. Carnival is late in 2027 — Clean Monday falls on 15 March — so on the pattern of recent years the parades fall on the weekend of 12 to 14 March with the burning of the Tzaros on Clean Monday itself. The Municipality of Xanthi confirms on +30 25410 73640.

Do I need a 4×4 in Thrace in winter?

The Egnatia and the coastal towns are cleared and level. What a 4×4 changes is the ground above them: the forest roads to the Nestos viewpoints, the Rodopi villages north of Xanthi, the Kato Nevrokopi plateau and the climb to Falakro, all of which can attract a chain order between October and April. Chains are supplied on a rental only if you ask for them in the contract.

Before you go

This guide was compiled in August 2026 from municipal announcements, the national environment agency's own pages, the Ministry of Culture's published timetables and the operators' own sites. Opening hours, event programmes, permit rules and road conditions in Greece are set season by season and can change at short notice, which is why every entry above carries a phone number — a call the week before confirms a programme, and the day before confirms a road. Greece reissues the winter museum timetable each late October, and the Falakro ski centre's operating arrangement for 2026/27 was still open when this was written.

If you find that something here has changed, we would like to know — info@camperjimny.com. We keep this guide updated.

Ready to go

CamperJimny rents 4×4s set up for winter travel in northern Greece. Bases at Agios Stefanos and Marathon, pickup between 10:00 and 20:00, and Athens Airport delivery if you are flying in. Ask for chains when you book an October-to-April trip.

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